heidesand – German icebox cookies

I am reporting live from my old room, in my parent’s house, in my hometown, where I spend most of the time of my youth. Yes I am in Germany and visiting my family. And right now it’s in the middle of the night, way past midnight and I am wide awake, like I never had been all day.  Welcome back jet lag, I didn’t miss you.

Just shortly before I arrived a great deal of snow fell and covered wide parts of Germany under a white blanket. As you might know I am living in the South and snow is a rare thing for me to see and I wasn’t aware how much I missed it. And it’s Christmas time, cookies, mulled wine and I am home, this can’t get much better (beside some sleep would be nice).

One nice part about Christmas is traditions, keeping old and making new ones. Traditions are more than a reliable or foul proof ritual, it is comforting and stress relieving. Things done a hundred times shouldn’t go wrong.

Although Heidesand is an old fashioned speak traditional recipe, it is a rediscovery for me. I lost track of this buttery cookies until recently. They caught my eyes while I had been skimming my recipe stack for Christmas deliciousness. I tend to overlook them, I have to admit, it’s not exactly what I would call an eye-catcher.  I started with one test batch, just a small amount and the cookies went faster than I could pull my camera. I baked several batches since: some thank you cookies for a great person, some to nibble on, some as a sweet gift for a dinner host and some as a Sunday afternoon snack for my parents.

No doubt this cookie recipe is a great tradition and a keeper, slice-and-bake cookies are as easy as it can get. They are quickly put together that means less time in the kitchen, more time for all the fun Christmas stuff. And who can resist browned butter?

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brown butter and hazelnut scones

Yesterday I was pretty proud about my workout. Today I walk as elegant as a cowboy after a long day on his horse’ back. My muscles are soar and it takes me double the time to get up from a chair. Let me tell you about my gym, now that I am about to move soon, I kind of look at thinks with a different eye.  First on the way there I have to pass a school, so I make sure not to hit the road at arrival or departure time of hundred of small kids with their crazy mums. If there wouldn’t be two policemen and a school crossing guard dealing with the traffic, I don’t know how anyone could survive this chaos. In case I left the school behind me and I am still willing to drive further to the gym, a higher force is testing me again. I can see my favorite pie shop on the right and the temptation is strong to pull over and get a slice of fruity or creamy pie. But (mostly) I am strong and reach the gym finally. Holding my key tag under the scanner an enthusiastic computer voice wishes me: “have a great workout”. It’s so stupid, kind and mean on the same time. I am so sorry for the nice guys working there and hearing this all day long. The next thing I notice, is the burned coffee smell. Especially in the morning this place is a meeting point for senior citizens and this gang likes to hang out, chat and have a cuppa. It is a cozy atmosphere but the coffee smell hits me like a punch in the face (nose). The black water is simmering for a very long time until bitter and lacking any flavor. Though I am not sure if there had been any in the first place.

I head downstairs while passing the squash courts and a mixed smell of testosterone, sport shoes and good old men sweet creeps up my nose. I instinctively start mouth breathing and walk faster, it is the only survival strategy that works.  Finally I arrive at the treadmill. Sometimes I run like a young god, but sometimes you know…

I am not very sporty, I’ve never been. If it wouldn’t be for health reasons I don’t believe I would workout just for fun, that’s for sure. Biking and all that fun sport is a different chapter, that me like.  After a good workout in the morning, I surely deserve a nice brown butter  and hazelnut scone with a hot cup of coffee, freshly brewed of cause.

I know we had a lot brown butter lately and even the brown butter and hazelnut combination as a granola, but why change a winning team? I could bath in brown butter and hazelnuts are my favorite.

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Schupfnudeln are on my to cook list (or craving list) since weeks. They are what I would call German comfort food and usually eaten with the mostly well known sauerkraut and bacon. Another name but rather uncommon is Finger Nudeln (finger noodles). Though they are called Nudeln I would rather translate them as dumplings as they are more similar to gnocchi than pasta. But that’s just hairsplitting and rather of less importance. You can find more information about Schupfnudeln here.

Sweet potato are fairly uncommon in Germany, sometimes hard to find but gaining popularity and that is no surprise to me. One point may be the growing interest for Asian cuisine.  But for me it’s the taste, their sweetness work great with savory dishes, can handle many seasonings and can be stored unwashed for 9 months, I actually never tried that, this knowledge comes from a farmers market vendor. I have to admit I didn’t grew up eating sweet potatoes and I had some troubles at the beginning and having them covered with marshmallows and brown sugar (yuck) for the first time, had not been helpful at all. I find more and more use for them in my recipes and they are one of my grocery staples now. Here they come accompanied by nutmeg, brown butter and fresh thyme. Enjoy!

sweet potato schupfnudeln with brown butter and thyme

ingredients:

about 450 g / 1 lb. sweet potato

1 egg yolk

1/2 to 1 tsp salt

nutmeg to taste (about 1/4 to 1/2 tsp, yes freshly ground please)

5 Tbsp all-purpose flour + more

1-2 tsp clarified butter, ghee, would be the best, vegetable oil would also work

50 g / 3 1/2 Tbsp unsalted butter

2 to 3 springs of thyme

instructions:

Pierce sweet potato all over with a fork, put on a lined baking sheet and bake at 230 C / 450 F for 30 to 45 minutes (depending if you preheated your oven or not). Let cool, cut in half lengthwise and scoop out the flesh with a spoon. Mash with a fork and add remaining ingredients. Add just enough flour to get a dough that comes nicely together and may be a little sticky.

Dust your hands, knife blade and cutting board with flour. Form a log and cut into 10 pieces (more or less doesn’t matter). Roll, roll, roll every piece into finger long and thick noodles. Preheat you pan to medium high heat, let melt clarified butter. Cook schupfnudeln until golden brown, rotate from time to time to get a nice color all around. You may need to separate this into two batches depending on your pan size.

For the brown butter: add butter to saucepan over medium heat, let melt and continue cooking. Keep stirring, it will start to foam than subside. Little brown specks will form. Brown butter is ready than you can smell the nice nutty aroma.

Arrange schupfnudeln on a plate, drizzle with brown butter and sprinkle with fresh thyme leafs.

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hazelnut and brown butter granola

 

Some weeks ago I had been in our library, walking up and down the shelves full of cookbooks, an old book about how Germans eat, cook and what they like for every meal of the day, caught my intention. The pictures showed meat, sausage and ham in bulks, the author mentioned Germans like abundant meals and vegetables are not so popular. Shaking my head in disapproval! Well I disagree, if that all would have been true, my bud would have the size of Texas and I would have health issues like diabetes (most likely). You might know I am German and I miss and appreciated my crispy roll (Brötchen) in the morning along with some good cheese or Black Forest ham. But most of the time there had been some fruits and muesli for breakfast. Since my move to the states and my hoard of “imported” muesli went fast, I settled for granola and steel cut oats (but that’s a different story) for weekday mornings.

If it comes to granola I like it simple, no fancy grains, exotic dried fruits or anything I would have to find in an specialty store or online. It’s not that I won’t believe in the extra hassle to make something special, it’s just I forget about it. On workdays breakfast should be quick and easy.

You might get the notion I am putting brown butter on everything I eat these days. Fair enough… you are right. My taste buds told me brown butter elevates every food to a higher level, no that’s just me being silly. Actually it is simple as it can be, I love the taste of brown butter and every time I make something with butter, I wonder if I can swap it with brown butter and is it worth the extra cooking step? Most of the time it is absolutely appropriate.

 hazelnut and brown butter granola

Use any kind of nuts you like, almonds and pecans are also great for granola. The same applies to seeds: sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds (pepitas)…

I love the taste of (chopped) dried plums in this granola but the chunks stick together and it’s like eating whole dried plums. Any ideas? How ever dried apricots are tasty or chocolate morsels (but I don’t do that any more). Just remember to add all this after cooling.

ingredients:

200 g / 2 cups rolled oats

100 g / 3/4 cup hazelnuts, roughly chopped

60 g / 2/3 cup coconut flakes, unsweetened

50 g / 1/3 cup sesame seeds

45 g / 1/4 cup flax seeds

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp salt

3 Tbsp unsalted butter

100 ml / 1/2 cup maple syrup, honey or agave syrup (or a mix of that)

70 g / 1/2 cup dried cranberries, cherries or raisins

instructions:

Preheat your oven to 150 C / 300 F and line your baking pan with parchment paper.

In a pan over medium high heat, add butter and cook, stirring frequently until you see small brown specks, remove from heat, add syrup or honey and set aside.

In a big bowl add all remaining ingredients except dried fruits and add the brown butter mixture, stir well. Lazy people like me use their stand mixer with a paddle attachment for this.

Spread evenly over the baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes to make sure granola browns evenly.

Let cool on the baking sheet, add the dried fruits and transfer to an airtight container. Can be stored for at least one month.

You can double the amount, use two baking sheets and rotate them.

 Appendix:

My blogging friend Sandy from Confiture de Vivre indicated to me that Meeta from What’s for lunch honey? initiates a Monthly Mingle about “granola and muesli” this month. Thanks Sandy! I’m game and looking forward to see all the other entries. Is there something like too many granola recipes? :)

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